06.08.07
Last Day on the Job
After a long month at the barbershop, I have finally ended my tenure as a 学徒. I say “long” out of habit, because in actuality the month went quite fast. When I first began this project I was viewing the month-long tenure as somewhat of a test. I would never have admitted this on the blog, but I was not 100% sure I could make it all the way. Neither were my co-workers, who I could tell for the first week were all thinking “Well, he’s here today, but I will give it a 50/50 chance he shows up tomorrow.”
Truth be told, on my last day I did not want to leave. Granted, I had only worked for a month, and I was reminded several times by co-workers that had I stayed for a year, I would have certainly hated my job. But in the end, I ended up enjoying my coworkers and lifestyle more than I ever could have imagined. With each passing day the eleven hours came and went faster and faster. Making new friends, and enjoying my work day were not reasons I decided to do this project, but they were nice, unexpected, bonuses.
When I first began this project, one of my goals was to understand what the life of a Chinese worker is like. As much as I enjoyed my month at the barber shop, I wish I could say the same for my coworkers. As Westerners, we are often shocked and appalled when we hear of the long hours Chinese workers work and the low salaries which they are paid. However, most Chinese service workers come from the countryside. Their families have been living agrarian lifestyles for centuries, the long hours and low salary of a city job are actually an improvement on their previous lifestyles.
What I found the most discouraging from a humanistic perspective was that with the possible exception of Jiang who gets creative pleasure out of designing hairstyles, I can honestly say that nobody in the barber shop likes their job. Even Mr. Zheng, if presented with the right opportunity, would leave the industry if he could. There is an overwhelming sense of lack of self-actualization, and many of my coworkers view their job as pointless, literally.
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| A final picture with Mr. Zheng and the masters: front row left ro right: Cheng Qing, me, Jiang. back row left to right: Guang Tou, Mr. Zheng, Xiao Wang, Adamum |
Throughout high school and college I worked many mundane part-time jobs which would be comparable to working in a barber shop in China. When talking to the full time employees (mostly adults who did not go to college) I never remember feeling the sense of disparity towards their jobs that the workers do in my barber shop in China.
So why do they stay? A quick answer would be that the hair industry is the best they can do. None of my colleagues have a college education. To my knowledge, only two of them have high school certificates. The rest only finished middle school. China has very few continued education opportunities. The only way to go to college is to pass the entrance exam at the end of high school. There are no night classes, no correspondence courses, and no DeVry. Failure to pass the college entrance exam (or the high school entrance exam for that matter) will almost certainly lead to a life in the working class.
Every single worker in the barber shop comes from the countryside. Most of them came to Fuzhou around the time they would have been graduating high school. They begin work as a little brother or little sister with hope of one day becoming a master, and after that possibly opening their own store. They do not have the capital nor the time to work on ventures outside the industry. Even a move within the same industry is difficult. Two of the masters at my shop had previously opened their own shops, but both failed, and after a considerable loss of capital, they had to return to working for somebody else.
Mr. Zheng is one of the rare success stories. On my last day in the barbershop, he told me he wanted to take me on a bike ride. As we rode through busy Fuzhou streets dodging motorcycles and buses Mr. Zheng turned to me and said, “You know Ben, I am trying to move away from cutting hair. Right now I am not taking any new customers, and the only people whose hair I cut are those whom I have cut for a long time.”
“So are you thinking about doing something else?” I asked.
“Well sort of. Eventually I want nothing to do with hair cuts anymore. I want to focus less on hair, and more on management. I want to take you somewhere so you can have a look,” he said.
After a dash through downtown, we ended up at another barber shop. This, I correctly assumed, was Mr. Zheng’s other shop that I had heard about from my coworkers, one in which he was only a shareholder, and did no manual work. As I walked in the new shop I was impressed. A month ago, I had barely been able to tell the difference between Chinese barber shops, but now I could decipher that this new shop had made vast improvements over our own, and all the services were priced the same as ours. The interior design was red and white with a modern theme, the barber chairs were newer and more comfortable, and all of the hair washing beds were located in a back room (no, not that kind of back room!) providing a darker, quieter, and more relaxing hair washing atmosphere than that of our shop. They also had a small break room where employees could store their belongings and grab a quick bowl of instant noodles. As Mr. Zheng showed me the break room, one of the shop’s little sisters brought us each glasses of lemonade, a much needed upgrade from the hot water in plastic cups at our shop. But what impressed me more than anything was the waiting area. In our shop, the waiting area consists of two tables placed in the middle of the shop. In the new shop, the waiting area was a slightly elevated area located off to one of the corners. It was surrounded by stones and live plants, and included cushy sitting chairs. The was also a computer, where customers (or idle employees) could play games, check their e-mail, or QQ all throughout the day.
“What do you think?” Mr. Zheng finally asked.
I did not know how to respond. This shop was clearly a big step up from ours. I did not want to sound as if I thought this store was so much better than our own, since Mr. Zheng’s only role was as an investor, whereas our shop he has built from the ground up.
“It’s really nice. I like the computer and the break room,” I told him.
“Yeah,” Mr. Zheng nodded. I could see he thought the same things about the shop in comparison to his as I did. It was an awkward moment, as the look on his face was not that of one who has just recently achieved a proud accomplishment.
We sat in the cushy chairs as Mr. Zheng introduced me to the managers and masters at the new shop. We chatted, ate peaches and drank lemonade for a few minutes, and then Mr. Zheng told me it was time to go.
On the bike ride back I asked about the business in his new shop.
“Is the new shop making money?” I asked.
“No, not at all.” Mr. Zheng said shaking his head.
“What is the problem?” I inquired.
“Not enough customers around here.”
From his body language, I could tell he had said enough. The frustration rang clear. Mr. Zheng is one of the hardest working managers I have ever worked under. He is intelligent, has excellent people skills, and knows more about hair than anybody I have ever met in my life. Yet even for him, it may be nearly impossible to realize his dream of not cutting hair. He has only a middle school education, and has been working in salons since he was 18. He has reached now the pinnacle of the barber shop world by becoming the boss of his own shop, but is now finding it difficult to achieve the ultimate goal of a service worker—leave the service industry. If the new store ultimately fails, chances are Mr. Zheng will just continue his life as the boss of our shop, working as both a manager and as a master. With the difficulties Mr. Zheng is having moving up and out of the working class, one can only imagine how difficult it must be for the workers who are not as driven as he is.
As several commenters have pointed out, the biggest difference between me and the other workers is that at the end of the month I will leave and have the option of choosing a completely different career path. For the my coworkers, their choices are simple. They can either try to keep moving up the barbershop ladder, with hopes of if not changing careers, at least increasing their incomes. They can switch industries and start back over from the beginning. Or they could return back to their hometowns and work barber shop jobs with even less pay and opportunity.
While I would be lying if I claimed I had truly experienced the life of a Chinese worker, I can honestly say that I feel more in tuned with the hardships and joys that they face on a daily basis. As the hours ticked down, I began to get a bit nostalgic about my life for the past month. I knew I would remain friends with my coworkers, but it would not be the same as spending 11 hours with them every day. After cleanup, we all went out to play pool and then sing karaoke. I topped off the sleeping in the dorm for an evening. The next morning I woke up and I was no longer an employee of the barber shop.
For the past two days, I missed the barber shop. I have gone into the barbershop both days to visit, and share some pictures I had taken with my coworkers. It was admittedly a little weird to be wearing shorts, and not be wearing my work apron, and to see hair on the floor and not rush to sweep it up. As I was sitting one of the tables with Cheng Qing and Adam when a customer came in. In instinctively shouted out “huang yin guang lin” before I could remind myself I was no longer an employee. I guess some things are hard to change.
A lot of readers are probably wondering what will happen of this blog now that my month as a xiao di is over. One of the biggest limitations of this blog the past month was that I only had a couple hours every day to write about my thoughts at the barber shop. Therefore there have been many happenings and ideas which have yet to be blogged in their entirety. I plan to use the next few weeks as sort of “clean-up” time to share some of these thoughts, and hopefully spark some more discussion. My parents will be coming to China for their first time from June 12 – June 26, so during that time my blog will be on a bit of a hiatus of sorts, although I do plan to make updates when I can. After that I hope to have a better idea of where I will be for the next few months, and if my time schedule and work commitments will allow any further projects like the barbershop experience. I want to thank everybody who has been keeping up with this blog for the past month, those who have given support, and those who have offered constructive criticism. But most of all, to Mr. Zheng and the other employees for giving me this chance to begin with. This is by no means the end of line, so keep on reading in the coming weeks for more barber shop banter, but for now just in case you missed it the first time….
For later posts pertaining to the barbershop click here.

Matt Schiavenza
said,
June 8, 2007 at 2:38 pm
Great post When I worked in entry-level jobs (from age 16 to 22), I detected a similar sense of desperation among adults trapped in those jobs. It is definitely easier to break free and get ahead in the US than in China, but I seem to recall a lot of my co-workers complain that they couldn’t save enough money for a college education, and without a college education they were pretty much unable to get a better job. Some had ideas and schemes but a lot went through their days in a sort of zombie-like state.
China’s definitely worse in this respect, but I think the phenomenon exists pretty much anywhere.
ty
said,
June 8, 2007 at 7:22 pm
It is incorrect to say that college entrance exam is the only way to receive higher education in China. There is a system called GaoZiKao, higher eduction through self learning. You could, if you work hard enough and possess the capability, get a degree after passing a number of exams on different subjects. The system has been there for years. Having said that, it is very hard for someone to finish a degree in that way because you have to work in the meantime to make a living.
Peter
said,
June 8, 2007 at 8:33 pm
It’s almost like watching the last episode of Friends. I feel sorry that you have to quit now that you feel so attached to the shop, but it’s cool that you shared the story with us. I’ll keep reading your blog until you decide to stop blogging. You wrote good stuff before, and will still after this.
Keep watching the sky!
Alan
said,
June 9, 2007 at 12:08 am
Ben, thanks for your Fuzhou blogs. I was born in Fuzhou and lately have been trying to figure out my root (whatever that means). My kids (ages 8 and 5) want to learn more about where dad was born. Fuzhou has changed so much since I was there two decades ago (I left in 1983). I feel for your coworkers. Hope your parents have a good time visiting you in Fuzhou. I remember it’s always hot in the summer. The humidity is so unbearable. Hope you have better AC now.
Wei
said,
June 9, 2007 at 1:34 am
Ben, I’ll have to point out your comment about higher education in China is a bit incomplete. In fact, there are varieties of night class programme as well as correspondence courses in China. And actually there is another form of distance learning system in China called “电大”, meaning televised college courses. My father had his undergrad study in a night class college, and my mother got her degree through a televised programme, both in 1980’s. However, for many people these programmes have little comparison with the formal on-site university education, although most of those are run by decent univiersities. The generation of my parents refer to the graduates from those “informal” college education as ”五大毕业生”,in self-mockery, namely, televised courses(电大), correspondence courses(函大), night classes(夜大), part-time courses(业余大学), and adult-education college(成人教育学院). Now the problem is, with the abundance of millions of university graduates struggling in the job market, those 五大毕业生 have little chance really. In contrary with the poor coverage of fundamental education, a college degree nowadays is absolutely nothing, no better than a trainee’s certificate from a barber shop in terms of employability.
Peach
said,
June 9, 2007 at 1:42 am
Thanks for the blog. It was a pleasure reading each post. I feel almost sad that you’re done with the barbershop. Like Peter said, it’s like watching the last episode of your favorite show.
ym
said,
June 9, 2007 at 2:24 am
This diary gives me a feeling of nostalgic,it is so moving! it just feels like your experience in the barbershop over the past month are not just a month but years .There are lots of word, so sincerely ,that i want to say but could not find its way because of my poor English skill.(Please allow me to say so)
keep walking!
joyce
said,
June 9, 2007 at 10:12 am
ben! thank you for the wonderful posts. saying it was insightful was an understatement. as i’ve only been in china for four months, some of my preconceived notions about the chinese and the life they lead were either broken or added a new dimension to because of your blog. i will be looking forward to your new posts.
Sharpie
said,
June 9, 2007 at 12:06 pm
Ben, it’s funny — i’ve just left my job today after giving in my notice a month ago, exactly around the time you started this project. It’s been a pleasure reading your blog. Do you have any future plans with the barbershop? Plans to conquer the West with Mr. Zheng and the little brothers?
Odadrek
said,
June 9, 2007 at 2:43 pm
Thanks for these posts, really interesting…
I would add to what Wei and Ty said, though. There are a fairly large number night classes and extra learning programs available in larger Chinese cities. (If you’re looking for a new job now, you could work 5 times as hard as you did in your previous English teaching job and join the elite end of the evening class market, by the way).
I agree that life is tough for those without higher qualifications, but I have occasionally met “self-made men” in China- very rich or moderately rich people with no higher qualifications (in a couple of cases not even any high school qualifications). But for that, you have to not just have the right idea but be in the right place at the right time, and I’m afraid that the right time was really the 80s and 90s. –I wonder if anyone who knows more than I could comment on that?
Benjamin Ross
said,
June 9, 2007 at 4:13 pm
Odadrek-
In China these people are called 暴发户, and Fuzhou is crawling with them. It is not hard to find millionaires around here who are neither educated, nor particularly bright. And as Odarek hints at, most of them were probably in the right place at the right time in the 80’s and 90’s, like the guy who controlled the sock factory when sock trading was opened to the West, or the one who controlled the fish farm when the exporting of fresh fish was deregulated by the central government. These are just examples I am making up, but you hear stories like this in Fuzhou all the time. A friend of mine is an immigration lawyer here and often tells me stories of clients from small towns, who have amassed enormous fortunes, and have no idea how they made their money, nor any records to track their profits. Several have been so uneducated, that they could barely read, yet their garages are lined with Lexus’s and BMW’s. With the possible exception of Zhejiang and Guangdong, Fujian is quite unique in this regard, due to its coastal location and the vast amount of its residents living overseas. The downside of all this is that it creates a model that the quick path to wealth is through business not education, but as Odadrek mentions, the “right time” probably was the 80’s and 90’s.
zuraffo
said,
June 9, 2007 at 10:25 pm
I have truly enjoyed your experiment. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
Odadrek
said,
June 10, 2007 at 10:32 am
Ben -
Thanks for pointing out the Chinese term.
If you want to read a sleazy novel about a guy like that, check out 天堂向左,深圳往右 by 慕容雪村, which was popular among my students in Sichuan (Suining). Actually the main character in that novel does have a degree, but the way he makes a fortune has nothing to do with his studies. It’s a seedy portrait of a stereotypical 90s ‘peasant-billionaire’, which ties together a number of images and stories you’ve probably heard in Fujian.
Chris
said,
June 10, 2007 at 5:21 pm
I have enjoyed your stories of the barbershop and have learned a lot. Hats off to you sir. I will now follow in your footsteps and become an apprentice grease truck driver.
开玩笑。
laolao
said,
June 11, 2007 at 7:45 pm
Ben,
It was time well spent. You may not realize it now, but you will always have guanxi with Mr. Zheng. As such, I’d like you to email me in private.
Regards,
LaoLao
Heilong
said,
June 12, 2007 at 3:44 am
Good to hear a happy ending to a great experiment. Make sure to go for a game of pool once in a while with your former coworkers. My wifes cousin is doing a night class in accountancy in Shen Yang’s Bei Da.
Phil
said,
June 12, 2007 at 4:41 am
That stuff about Mr Zheng’s other shop is amazing. If you learn any more about its success or otherwise, please blog it!
Chris
said,
June 12, 2007 at 7:45 am
Well done. I really enjoyed reading this.
Jeremy
said,
June 12, 2007 at 10:17 am
Ben,
Very nice initial finish to your one month experience. Putting up a link to your blog right now.
Audall
said,
June 12, 2007 at 1:57 pm
Ben,
That experience may not be the last that you have like that, but I’m sure it will always offer a profound wealth of good memories and insight. I still remember very vividly, my first trip to Indonesia as a college student. I ran out of money and tried to sell my walkman on the street to tourists and locals, to no avail. The awkward situations, rejections, desperation and hunger pangs, and the strange alleys I went down and characters I never otherwise would have met, all served to give me a life changing experience. I quickly realized how hard it is to try and hustle everyday and sell crap to tourists and locals with the hope that you will eat later on. To walk in someone else’s shoes for awhile is a great education. Good for you for seeking it out. Im sure that just as much as you have come to know others, you have learned about yourself and where you come from. Good and bad. Thanks for the stories.
Jet So
said,
June 12, 2007 at 4:05 pm
Amen to all. Your one-month trial & experience puts many so-called “Old China Hands” to shame!
As for the potential downside of wealth through business not education, I could counter that for every Li Kai-Shing and Lee Shau-Kee (the world’s richest Chinese that only had a primary school education), there are hundreds of richly-paid and highly-educated professionals looking after their wealth and property. Not everyone is cut out to be a 打天下商人…
Miles
said,
June 20, 2007 at 11:10 pm
I read an article in China Daily that predicts China will be next India with respecct to growth and opportunites for people in Information Technology. How do you feel this will impact upward mobility for the worker?
James Chiang
said,
July 2, 2007 at 3:41 pm
Time flies!