09.17.08
Baozi (and Japanese Efficiency)
Japan has a worldwide reputation for its efficiency. For years, they built their economy on taking foreign products and making them better than the original inventors had. Whether it is cameras, computers, or automobiles, Japan simply makes quality stuff. Let’s take another product and add it to the list: baozi (包子). Yup, those puffy steamed buns which are a hit with both Chinese and foreigners alike in the Middle Kingdom are wildly popular in Japan as well. And just as a Honda is a superior machine to a Volkswagen, I must admit the Japanese have a better take on the baozi than the do its original inventors.
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| Baozi, slow cooking in a Tokyo 7-11 |
Baozi can be found in virtually every region of China. They are typically cooked in large bamboo steamers, and sold in the morning as a breakfast snack. Their flavors tend to vary from region to region (i.e. the “soup” baozi common in Hangzhou and Shanghai, or the “cha shao” baozi found in Guangdong), but for the most part this variation is regional, with each region having a rather unvaried baozi selection. (While I know several shops in Beijing putting everything from mapo tofu to stir-fried pork and cabbage in their baozi, this is the exception, not the rule.)
In Japan, baozi can be found in 7-11’s and various other convenience stores. Rather than using metal steamers, the baozi are slow cooked on metal cooking racks which in the US would probably contain hot dogs or taquitos. But what sets Japanese baozi apart from the rest is the barrage of flavors in which they are available. Each level of the cooker contains a different flavor: pork, beef, high grade pork, red bean, curry, and my own personal favorite: pizza. In addition to the insides being varied, the steamed bread itself is modified with the different flavors too. For example, in the pizza baozi, the bread is cooked with cheese flavoring, and in the curry one the yellow buns, in addition to their flavory insides, carry the scent of Indian curry.
As they are in China, baozi are now a common staple in the Tokyoite diet for all walks of life. With their portability, and ease of production and variation, baozi are perfectly suited for the busy Tokyo lifestyle. Accordingly, they are also probably the most visible Chinese culinary product in Tokyo today. Now if only some American company would take wind of this trend, and pick up the baozi slack in the US…or did we already learn our lesson with the automobile?
ouyang
said,
September 17, 2008 at 7:01 am
The best baozi that I ever tasted was in Taiwan. I found a little shop down from my apartment in Tainan that sold it with a variety of fillings, including cheddar cheese. I didn’t see it anything like it anywhere else there, but I wasn’t in Taiwan for very long.
I’m not a food expert like you Ben, but I think you would enjoy exploring the food options in Taiwan someday. Also, they have an incredible number of 7/11s, but I don’t remember any particularly appetizing food there.
Anyway, I used to really enjoy picking up my baozi and heading to the internet bar with a little bottle of wine from a 7/11 after work. There was a beef and pepper baozi that tasted like nothing else I’ve ever eaten.
Bryan
said,
September 17, 2008 at 7:28 am
I agree with ouyang, Taiwan has excellent baozi. There was a corner vendor right opposite of my hotel in Yonghe and for NT$25 you could buy three baozi and a soy milk. I really miss cha siu (chashao) baozi and the vegetable baozi as well. Someday when I visit China I want to try it too.
FYI, the type of baozi in 7/11 and its friends are microwave style types that you can buy in the grocery shops and eat at home too. Though I don’t think I’ve seen the keema curry or pizza baozi in the grocery store though–only the meat filling ones. The pizza one is my favorite one too.
Lucy
said,
September 17, 2008 at 10:27 am
I like baozi, only when it’s hot, or at least warm. Which means the baozi has to be immediately consumed right after purchase. If it is available here in Canada, I don’t know how it is gonna work. Say I am going to grab some baozi on my way to work or during my lunch break. I have two options, either stand in a corner of Max’s milk or 7-11 to finish them before heading back, or pack them to go. By the time I walk back, baozi will be cold in fall/winter time. If I heat them up in the microwave, the break skin becomes chewy. I think it is uncommon here to eat when you are walking on the street. That’s not very nice looking for a lady who is in business attire, isn’t it?
)
Maybe it is just me, or just my perception of how baozi should be eaten.
For baozi to be popular in NA, the stuffing has to be visible, like hot dog, taco, pizza or burger. You see what you are getting, so there is no surprises or mistakes. Like dumplings, every time we eat with non-Chinese friends, they have to ask “what’s inside” first before they jump in. Plus, some baozi have more stuffing than others depending on the vendor or brand, I don’t want to be ripped off by finding out so little meat inside only after I pay for them. My son actually counts how many pieces of of pepperoni on the pizza slice. If it is less than five, “I want the other slice”. For baozi, you can’t do that.
james
said,
September 17, 2008 at 11:17 am
“And just as a Honda is a superior machine to a Volkswagen”
Hah! Clearly you’ve spent far too much time in old Santanas and none at all in a GTI.
MC
said,
September 19, 2008 at 1:44 am
The best baozi in China is the so-called Tianjin(my hometown) Goubuli baozi. That was probably the only thing Tainjin was known for in China. Yeah, as some of the previous commentors mentioned, they have to be eaten freshly hot. Re-heating is a big no-no in Chinese cusines in general. I don’t mean to be nationalistic, but there is no question that Tianjin Goubuli baozi would beat those Japanese knock-offs by a mile.
Benjamin Ross
said,
September 19, 2008 at 7:53 am
MC-
Not to insult your nationalism or you Tianjinism, but I must say that I was completely disappointed with goubuli baozi. The first time I went to Tianjin in 2005, my immediate plan of action was to seek out the famous goubuli. I found a goubuli shop and ordered a plate. They were virtually identical to the baozi I had eaten in Fujian, not bad, but just plane old baozi. I tried goubuli baozi at several other Tianjin restaurants, all with similar results. However, and this is a big “however,” what I did find is that Tianjin has some of the absolute best snacks and street food (I wish I had taken more pictures) of anywhere in China. Ironically, they aren’t nearly as famous as the 狗不理包子 and 麻花 that come to mind when everybody thinks of Tianjin.
Micah Sittig
said,
September 23, 2008 at 8:26 am
I want to second Ben’s comment on the goubuli baozi. Completely overrated.
Cennie
said,
September 24, 2008 at 9:32 pm
Will you still be blogging when u return to the US? There was one period (when u were back in the US) of time whereby I cannot seem to get in to your blog. =(
Benjamin Ross
said,
September 25, 2008 at 6:30 am
Cennie-
I’ve just been taking a short blogging hiatus since I’ve been back in the US. I should be back to normal speed in the next day or two. That time you couldn’t access my blog was probably due to a technical issue, which has since been resolved (I hope). If you ever have problems getting the site to load, send me an e-mail at bensinchina at yahoo dot com. But for now, we should be okay.
shoe
said,
September 28, 2008 at 1:54 am
please seek help from the press if you found this blog has not been updated for more than 5 days. Ben might start signing on his new released book called “how do you turn into Chinese in 3 years”instead of putting on here for free.