07.01.08
Back to the Provinces
Scattered throughout the Middle Kingdom, are hundreds of various tourist attractions. From “famous” mountains to Buddhist temples, to particular locations where so-and-so leader gave so-and-so speech to China is packed with “scenic spots.” Every province has them. Many are quite worthwhile. But after you break double digits in the scenic spot count, they start to grow monotonous. This is not to say that many of China’s tourist attractions are not worth their while. However, for me I’ve always had my most interesting Chinese travel excursions when I escape off to a random city or town which has nothing “to see” at all.
This is why, now that I have a few days free, I’ve decided to explore Hebei province. Hebei is one of the more anonymous provinces in China, mainly known for the fact that it completely surrounds Beijing and Tianjin. It’s name means “north of the river,” and as advertised, it is exactly north of the river, the yellow one that is. I’ve never read any literature about traveling in Hebei, nor has a Chinese person ever recommended I go there—two perfect reasons to take a few days to check it out.
It’s only been a few hours since I arrived in Shijiazhuang (the capital of Hebei) but being here has already reinforced one important fact about China. Beijing is not a typical Chinese city. It is cosmopolitan Chinese metropolis, full of popular tourist attractions and sites of historical interest. It also very much has its own local lifestyle and culture, unique among other Chinese cities, not to mention the enormous foreign influence from all the other laowai running around. With all its culture and excitement, the sites and sounds of Beijing tend to overshadow many of the small nuances which make China feel like China.
Currently I’m two weeks into my Chinese summer visit, and today has been the first time I have entered “the provinces.” From the minute I stepped out of the Shijiazhuang train station, I felt more in touch with the China I am familiar with than at any other time during my trip thus far. From the hordes of bicycles lining the streets during rush hour, to the QQ milk tea selling for 2 RMB, to the white tile buildings which make up entire city blocks, to the techno music blaring from storefronts, I finally feel like I’m back in the Middle Kingdom. Sometimes “nothing to see” can be the best attraction of all. More to come soon from North of the Yellow River.
chriswaugh_bj
said,
July 2, 2008 at 3:38 pm
I can think of several reasons to visit Hebei, the top three of which would be:
1: Shanhaiguan, where the Great Wall meets the sea.
2: Chengde, the former imperial summer retreat (Rehe/Johol in Qing times)
3: Baiyangdian, the marsh made famous by Xiaobing Zhang Ga (小兵张嘎).
Having said that, although I’ve passed through Hebei many, many times, the only place in Hebei I’ve visited was my mother in law’s home village.
Yu
said,
July 2, 2008 at 10:59 pm
A few weeks ago while I was in the Hefei (Anhui) airport, there was a flight to Shijiazhuang, and all of my travelling companions were commenting on the fact that we had never heard of this place and where it could possibly be. Our Chinese travelling companion also did not know. Thanks for the enlightenment.